Sunday, March 18, 2012

Update and Saraguro (Part 2)

Yesterday, St. Patty's Day, I celebrated with traditional Irish food (which was just so-so) in a lavish restaurant where expats and Ecuadorians enjoyed lots of camaraderie and good conversation.  My friend and I started walking while the sun was shining at ~ 4:00 (Happy Hour started at 5:00), but we got caught in a rain storm before we arrived at the restaurant.  It's about 4:00 on Sunday afternoon and it's raining again; Cuenca tends to have rain sometime every day during rainy season and it's hard to determine when the cloud burst will be.  We always carry an umbrella!
     Saraguro (part 2):  On the Sunday morning when we were in Saraguro, we hiked to an ancient Incan site for a traditional shamanic ceremony. The shaman was a young man; I had expected an "old, wise one", but he explained that when the Spanish introduced Catholicism, most Ecuadorians converted and the shamanic traditions were forgotten.  He had studied (on his own) and was able to recreate the traditional ceremony and asked the women (mother and daughter) to assist. 
The ceremony brought back memories for me when I participated in Native American ceremonies in New Mexico. The things that were similar were the prayers to the 4 directions, burning of sage, cedar, etc for cleansing, the use of feathers, and the shaman playing the flute and drum. The Ecuadorian ceremony incorporates the use of many flowers, and two kinds of drinks--one herbal tea, the other a slightly alcoholic drink (both we sipped).  The female assistant also puts some of the alcoholic drink in her mouth and then sprays the back of participates to cleanse the body.  I am grateful they were willing to share the ceremony with us.
 
After we left the ceremony, we took the bus back into the village of Saraguro to experience the indigenous activities on Sunday.  In all villages/towns/cities that I have visited, there is always a central plaza and a Catholic church where people gather to worship, visit with family and friends and sell their wares.  The tour guides told us the older people are very reluctant to have their pictures taken and ask us to only take pictures at a distance of them and always ask others if taking their picture was o.k. I took the women's picture from the bus and asked the little girl; she said "yes" and then became very serious. 

Notice the women's skirts:  they are a set of 2 (always black), top one is made of material with very small pleats, the underskirt is embroidered on the bottom with various colors.  In the past, blouses and shawls were always black--the younger women are beginning to wear colored blouses.  The shawls are worn diagonally with a special pin that holds it in place.  I talked about the special white and black hats previously, but many of the people can't afford those, thus, the simple black hats.
The above picture shows the beaded necklaces created and worn by the women (also a closer picture of the traditional pin that holds the shawl).
These pictures taken in the square and outside the church.  Men wear the knee-length shorts with poncho and hat.  And we saw young indigenous girls and boys in western attire also (oh, those rebellious youth!)  This is such a fascinating society and I learned so much and I respect that they are trying to keep their unique traditions.  
 
While we were visiting the plaza, a wonderful parade of riders and prancing horses passed by.  I was able to get only one good picture, but there were many and very impressive.  I've recently read that Ecuador riders/horses participate in horse shows around the world. 
     I'll leave you today with a picture of one of the most beautiful rainbows I have ever seen and another view of the mountains.  One of the traditional stories about the rainbow is that in the spot where the rainbow ends, the young women will become pregnant.  'Guess there will be many babies in this village in 9 months!

     Friday I will visit my first hacienda which is about 30 minutes from Cuenca.  There are many activities planned for everyone, especially families;  I plan to take it easy!  
     Till next time . . . Chao

1 comment:

  1. Hi Nancy, Its so good to see yet another beautiful post from you. I look forward to seeing them and I hope you enjoy creating them. I love the pictures of the locals. Its interesting to me that the tradition of wearing black seems to be a global one; the hats remind me of "bowlers" that were popular in old western movies. Its been very cold and rainy here for the last few days; although its been a relatively mild winter, I'm more than ready for spring to start on Tuesday. Take good care and enjoy! Linn

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